jadkins.com

General: Have you got anything without spam?

Just FYI, I deleted a LOT of comments today that were (hopfully) all spam and, if yours was one of them, sorry.

As for updates/pictures... well... um... yeah. That would be good if I actually did something.

I think I may have one or 2 pictures lying about doing nothing (lazy bums). I'll try to post them soon.

Photos: Sengakuji Temple (Resting Place of the 47 Ronin)

Sengakuji temple houses the graves of the 47 Ronin (and their lord, Asano Takumi-no-Kami Naganori). The story is fairly well known in the west, and is very famous here in Japan. It is considered a lesson on bushido (the warriors code).

If you aren't interested in the story, you can jump straight to the photos.

History in a Nutshell

As the story goes, lord Asano was insulted by Kira (Kira Kozuke-no-Suke Yoshinaka), another of the myriad of Japanese lords, and Asano attacked Kira. Oddly enough, the actual attack wasn't, it seems, as important as where the attack took place; Edo castle, the home of the Shogun. Asano was ordered to commit seppaku (ritual suicide).

Asano's samurai retainers planned to step down quietly, as to enable the succession of another member of the family. Unfortunately, this was impossible due to some political maneuvering. The current leader of the samurai (now, technically ronin), Oishi Kuranosuke Yoshio decided to plan revenge! On December 15th, 1702, Oishi and 46 other ronin (including Oishi's son) stormed Kira's mansion and, after a brief discussion, decapitated Kira, and took his head to Sengakuji temple. Apparently some people think that the true villan was the shogun, as this question is brought up in the entertaining, yet poorly produced video playing at the temple.

A month and a half later, on February 4th 1703, forty-six of the ronin committed seppaku as ordered by the shogun. Their graves can still be seen today at Sengakuji temple.

The Temple Today

After looking at the plaque listing the names of the 47 ronin at Sengakuji station, proceed quickly to the temple (about a 1 min walk). When you get to the temple from the station the first thing you will see is a large wood gate. This is called the middle (or second) gate constructed in 1836. Passing through this you come to the sacred gift shop. Next, across a very small stone bridge is the bronze statue of Oisji Kuranosuke, built in 1921. After this is the main (or third) gate, rebuilt in 1832. On the celling of the ground-floor can be seen a bronze dragon. Next is the wholly unimpressive main hall, rebuilt after WWII. To the left of the main hall is a statue of Sawaki Kodo Roshi, a 20th century Zen master. Just past him is the temple bell, constructed in 1913. Next is a series of plum trees given to and from people involved in the story. Among these trees is 'the blood stained stone,' from where Asano committed seppaku. Upon returning from decapitating Kira, the ronin, for some reason, washed his head in the well. The well is named Kubi-Arai well, meaning the head washing well. I assume that this was a later modification. Next, proceed through the gate that was originally at Asano's house, and come upon the Graves of the 47 ronin.

Getting There

First, get to Japan. Specifically Tokyo. After that, it's a piece of cake. The temple is a 2 minute walk from the aptly named Sengakuji station. This is very close to Shinagawa station on the subway Toei Asakusa Line. Admission is free for the graveyard and ¥500 for the museum.

Continue reading "Sengakuji Temple (Resting Place of the 47 Ronin)"

Photos: Jiyugaoka Graveyard

After stopping at the Tamagawa Shrine I headed to a Graveyard in Jiyugaoka.
For the most part, it's just the same as most other shrines. The main difference being all the gravestones. Typically in Japan people are cremated rather than buried. Also, it seems that a lot of families use the same headstone. Some of these headstones appear to be very old. As I wandered around looking at the monuments I had to take some pictures of some of the gifts left for the dearly departed: mostly flowers, but also beer.

I enjoy walking the grounds and I would definitely recommend visiting some of the smaller neighborhood shrines. Many of these are not as "magnificent" as some of the more popular ones, I think they offer a lot more in terms of accessibility.

Continue reading "Jiyugaoka Graveyard"

Photos: Tamagawa Shrine

After looking back at other posts that I have made, I noticed that , while I got a lot of Japan and Tokyo, I had very little from my back yard, as it were. So, last week, I piced up the camera and jumped on my bike and headed out around Setagaya. I hit 3 temples/shrines in the course of one afternoon, and there are at least three others within walking distance that I did not visit.

Tamagawa Shrine is the first of the three that I did go to. It is a bit farther away than some of the others, but it had some interesting stonework. Tucked under bushes and in corners are small statues of monks and dragons. There was also a small shrine dedicated to the wily fox! The chipped and worn foxes signify an Inari shrine, or rice-god shrine, of whom the fox is a messanger.

The shrine, in general, is sadly a bit rundown. It seems that they may only really spruce the place up when they have a special event. When taken as a whole the shrine is nothing special. This shrine only shines when you get close-up.

Continue reading "Tamagawa Shrine"

Photos: Fukuoka

As far as history goes, this entry is going to come up a bit short. I went to Fukuoka for a few days over New Years and while I was there I visited a castle (unknown origin/name) that had a very nice bridge leading to it (unknown bridge), a museum (next to the above unknown castle) that had some really interesting samurai armor and weapons and a temple. Fukuoka itself is much like other non-Tokyo cities is Japan: more unused space and greenery. It was New Years, so naturally very quiet. Also, in three days, I didn't see any other foreigners. Not even at the airport. Since it was a short trip, this is in no way a review/critique of the city and I am just using this as a place holder to share a few of the pictures that I was able to get.

Enjoy

Continue reading "Fukuoka"

General: HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Just want to wish everybody a happy new year. This site may be quiet for the next few days but I'll be adding a few new things next week. I also have some pretty nice plans for the next couple of months that may be of some interest, including the "Made in Japan" section that will feature (I hope once a week, at least) some new and interesting foods and drinks.

So, what's your resolution?

Made in Japan: Christmas Cake

Merry Christmas Everybody! Today is a special post that relates to Japan AND Christmas: Christmas Cake! What is Christmas Cake, you ask? Well, Japan, as you may know, isn't a Christian Country, But they still have an odd set of Christmas customs. The day has become, much like in the US, a day for children's presents. A few children, I am told, even believe in Santa Claus. Outside of that, it isn't a family holiday like it is in the west. Christmas eve is a night for couples to go out and have dinner. thats about it. Traditionally it seems that KFC is an important part of Christmas in Japan, although, to be honest, I've never seen much interest in that particular tradition here in Tokyo (maybe it's different in other parts of Japan). What I do see a lot of is Christmas Cake. I don't really know why 'cake,' but thats what you get. There is nothing special about the cake itself, although strawberry seems to be a common trend. It's tasty and expensive (what else would you expect?).

Just FYI: I had sushi and crab-miso soup for Christmas Eve dinner, and I'll probably have some chicken for dinner tonight. A very different experience from "traditional."

General: No Update This Week

Hey everyone. Sorry to say there is no update this week, due to the fact that I was busy. But I do plan to update again soon, but I don't have any specific plans. Also, I will start a new feature dealing with (mostly) Japanese food and drink. Mostly I will get these from the convenience store around the corner.

Apart from that, Yesterday was the Emperor's Birthday (I didn't get invited to the birthday party) and tomorrow is Christmas so... Happy Holidays!

Photos: Motomachi-Chukagai (Chinatown)

Motomachi-Chukagai is the old gaigin (foreigner) part of Yokohama. On the one side o f the canal you have the European/American style area (which includes the Foreigners Graveyard [pic], and on the other side, you have (the much more visually interesting) Chinatown. Chinatown in %85 tourist trap/ %15 real Chinatown. There is also a Museum/mall called Daska [pic] that purports to be a "Historical time travel through Shanghai" (starting in an elevator). Mostly it's just a cheesy display, a surprisingly entertaining floor show, and a food court. as a side note, the bathrooms here are especially clean and nice. In general the food in the big restaurants is shockingly overpriced and (so I am told) suited to the Japanese palate. There are, however, many street vendors selling cheap, filling food such as Pan (called niku-man or whatever-is-inside-man) [pic] in many varieties; from beef and pork to green tea & red-bean. These, along with a moderately priced Tsing-Tao beer, were my lunch.

The night ended with dinner and drinks in Kannai: an developing nightspot in Yokohama, where hundreds of bars and restaurants can be found. In all, Motomachi is a good day trip if you live in Japan and want a simple day trip to see something different, but if you travelled all the way here to experience Japanese culture, you may want to skip this and head to one of the more Japanese-y places.

Continue reading "Motomachi-Chukagai (Chinatown)"

Photos: Tsukiji Fish Market (and photos)

Another Update. Today I went down to Tsukiji Fish Market! [tsukiji-market.co.jp] The biggest fish market in the world! or something.

For those of you who don't know, Tsukiji Market is the largest fish market in Japan and quite possibly the world. Upon entering the market from the Fish temple [pic] side it isn't all that impressive. This is before you realize that the market goes on beyond what you can see. There are over a thousand merchants selling their fish stock (2,500 tons a day). The entire area takes up about the same space as a football stadium.

We got to the market at around 6:30. Luckily we were early enough to see the tuna auctions. In a few warehouses near the back you can find the tuna auction by the singsong chant of the auctioneers. The most interesting of these was doing a little dance on his pedestal as he sold his giant tuna [pic]. The tuna themselves are impressive. Ranging in size from that of a large-ish dog, to bigger than two men. All of them are frozen to keep for however long until they need to be sliced and served. The tails of each are cut off to, I assume, check the fat content and color of the meat. Each tuna is inspected and graded before the auction and some of the better fish go for over a kilo (about $45 a pound).

Next was the market proper. Each of the 1000-plus merchants site in a carefully defined space and generally specialize if a few types of fish. The prices for fish here are drastically lower than what you would normally find in Tokyo supermarkets. The selection is amazing. Not only can you find local procured fish, but also fish from around the world.

One of the important things to remember is to try and stay out of the way. There are hundreds of shoppers and, even more dangerous, the little transport trucks that swarm over the small aisles. But honestly the tourists are fairly well tolerated, considering we are just wandering around their workplace, taking pictures as they go about their workday.

One of the more interesting moments was the escaping octopus [pic]! It slowly tried to escape while people danced around it (or just stepped on it) on their way dawn the aisle. Unfortunately for him, it was only a matter of time before he got scooped up and carried off back to the tank.

Last for the day was breakfast sushi at Daiwa sushi. It's listed as the #1 sushi restaurant in Tokyo by Zaggat. Unfortunately its only open from 5:30AM to 1:30PM, so you cant stop in for dinner sushi. The sushi set is large (and a lot of food for breakfast), but is very fresh. after looking at all the fresh fish all day, the tuna was unbelievably good, and a great way to end a trip to Tsukiji.

Click "Continue Reading" below to see the photos from this weeks adventure.

Continue reading "Tsukiji Fish Market (and photos)"

General: A Walk Through Old Tokyo

This week I took a walk around an older part of Tokyo isn't really listed on any tour maps. There is a reason for this: it doesn't have a big shiny temple or a giant Buddha. It's just a neighborhood. But it's a nice neighborhood. And if you are looking for a one day walk that will show you some real Japanese life, sprinkled with temples and cemeteries, than this is the walk for you.

This day started out at Sendagi Station on the Chiyoda line. Right around the corner from the station was Sudo Koen, a little park that was highly recommended, and a bit run-down. I say this mostly because of the homless guy and the overflowing trash cans. Aside from that, it was a beautiful, highly landscaped park, that I would love to have outside my window. It even had a little waterfall. A little more care and bum-rushing would turn this into one of the nicest little parks I've seen here.

NOTE: It must be said that I am a little jaded when it comes to Japanese city parks. The park outshines, by far, any city park that I've seen in the U.S.

Next us was Yanaka-Ginza street. This is a little shopping street that was decorated with small black and white pictures over the various shoe stores, fish shops, tea shops and such. Places worth mentioning: Buseki flower baskets. this is a little store full of handcrafted Japan-bric-a-brac (and a singed picture of Walter Mondale visiting the store). Next, Kamekichi Tea. a wee-little tea shop? no. This was one of the bigger stores on the street and has hundreds of different types and grades of tea (mostly green, i think). Upon entering you get a free cup of tea to hold while you browse. Also, conveniently enough, is a small chart explaining the different grades of green tea. Handy if you, like me, know nothing about tea. Last (for this part of the trip) was Goto-no-ame, a candy store. This is a candy store with a country flavor. As you walk in, the owner (I assume) yells his Irashaimase over ver the smooth country sounds of George Straight (or whomever) while wearing a nifty cowboy hat and boots. quite incongruous.

As you come to the end of the shopping section of the street you come to a set of stairs that lead up into what we will call the temple area. One of them was what seemed to be a music school (or for some reason I remember as such). It had a big tree that is apparently of some significance. And a spider, that was just creepy.Next door was Keio-ji temple. A little neighborhood temple most notable for its copper drainage system.

Next stop? Miyako Senbei, an old shop selling rice-cakes, sembei style. Although that store was closed, an old lady (who I will call Bridget) managed to convince the woman that runs the store to open up and sell a few. So we patiently waited in line hoping to get something to snack on, when "Bridget" turned and said, with a brusk wave, "closed today!" Properly chastised, we made our way down the street to the next little adventure.

Actually the next few hours was a wander through unnamed cemeteries looking for food. The area was quiet and peaceful, as a cemetery should be. Eventually the tour ended up in Ueno park (a different story for a different day) and a really nice ramen shop. By this time we had been walking for about 5 hours and had run out of energy.

This is ending bady, so all I can say is: Tune in for the continuing adventures of Joe in Tokyo!

The idea for this trip came from the book Little Adventures in Tokyo by Rick Kennedy Amazon.com/Amazon.co.jp

Photos: A Walk Through Old Tokyo (Photos)

Continue reading "A Walk Through Old Tokyo (Photos)"

General: Happy Thanksgiving

To echo a recent comment, "Happy Thanksgiving." I know that its a day or two late, but, well, there s no Thanksgiving here :(

This is one of the few days of the year that I really wish that I was back in the States.Well, have a turkey sandwich for me, and... enjoy!

General: Kyoto

I just got back from a 2 day trip to Kyoto (Japan, of course). For only 2 days, it was a great trip, but I'm sure that you could spend a few more, if you don't get burned out on temples and Japanese history. I was in Kyoto on November 1st and 2nd. Unfortunately this was, as it turned out, about 2 weeks too early. The leaves were just beginning to turn, and soon it will be ablaze with color (and dead leaves). No matter! I took plenty of pictures and I will post them posthaste!

The first day started early with a 7 a.m. train out of Jiyugaoka. From there, it was a 30 minute ride to Shin-Yokohama, where we caught the Shinkansen (or "bullet train"). This was about a 2 hour trip. From Kyoto station, we were able to send our luggage on to the hotel, saving a trip. first stop, Gion [history - photos]. Obviously Gion is all about the nightlife, as it was virtually deserted. It wasn't until we headed back to the main tourist street that we saw actual signs of life. Next was one of the highlights of the trip, the Gion odori, or dance [photos]. This was an amazingly interesting dance where geisha perform their trade. In its current incarnation, it only runs for 10 days. If you plan to visit Kyoto, check ahead to see if there is one scheduled. It'll be well worth the price. Following the dance, we visited few of the many surrounding temples. Most notable was the Kiyomizu temple [history - photos]. This is an impressive temple that looks out over Kyoto. After that, back to the hotel for a quick break before dinner, and then off to Pontocho for dinner. Pontocho is a narrow (about two people wide, comfortably) street/ally lined with restaurants and bars. Some of them are frequented by Geisha and their guests, but these are all by invite only. and the invite should be on top of a stack of cash. As we had neither, we opted for the concierges recommendation, Hasunba [ Hasunba review]. This was a great little restaurant off of the main Pontocho... um... ally. The approach to the restaurant was a little daunting as you turn off one dark ally, onto another, smaller, darker ally. But there was a light meal at the end of this tunnel. The meal consisted of tomato salad, fish-in-a-blanket, pork stew and Kyoto style eel. All of these were infinitely tastier than they sound. After dinner we headed back to the hotel to get some sleep for the next day of fun.

The second day started, a little later than planned, with a buffet breakfast at the hotel. After a nice stroll along the river, it was time to be off to Kinkakuji [history - photos] or "Temple of the Golden Pavilion." This truly impressive temple is, as advertised, golden, and one of the most popular tourist destinations in Kyoto. The temple sits on a reflecting pool/pond. Behind the temple is a beautiful, traditional garden that you can slowly stroll and admire before you get to less-serene, yet just as traditional, gift shop. From here it was off to the Kyoto Imperial Palace [history]. Two important things to note about the Kyoto Palace: one, it's only open to the public a few days a month. two, you need reservations. I missed on both counts, so the palace was essentially, a big park [photos], with some walls in the middle. The final stop on this tour was Nijo Castle [history - photos]. Although the castle and the gardens around it are impressive, without the history behind them, they would be much less interesting.

Although the trip lasted only a few days, we managed to visit some of the most popular destinations, and see some truly interesting things, culturally and artistically. If you visit Japan, a few days visit to Kyoto would be well worth your time, and I highly recommend it

General: Kyoyo Imperial Palace History

Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyoto Gosho) used to be the residence of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868, when the emperor and capital were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park.

The palace burnt down and was moved around the city several times over the centuries. The present reconstruction dates from 1855. The palace complex is enclosed by a long wall and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. The enthronement ceremonies of Emperors Taisho and Showa were still held in the palace's main hall, but the present Emperor's ceremony took place at the Tokyo Imperial Palace.