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A Walk Through Old Tokyo

This week I took a walk around an older part of Tokyo isn't really listed on any tour maps. There is a reason for this: it doesn't have a big shiny temple or a giant Buddha. It's just a neighborhood. But it's a nice neighborhood. And if you are looking for a one day walk that will show you some real Japanese life, sprinkled with temples and cemeteries, than this is the walk for you.

This day started out at Sendagi Station on the Chiyoda line. Right around the corner from the station was Sudo Koen, a little park that was highly recommended, and a bit run-down. I say this mostly because of the homless guy and the overflowing trash cans. Aside from that, it was a beautiful, highly landscaped park, that I would love to have outside my window. It even had a little waterfall. A little more care and bum-rushing would turn this into one of the nicest little parks I've seen here.

NOTE: It must be said that I am a little jaded when it comes to Japanese city parks. The park outshines, by far, any city park that I've seen in the U.S.

Next us was Yanaka-Ginza street. This is a little shopping street that was decorated with small black and white pictures over the various shoe stores, fish shops, tea shops and such. Places worth mentioning: Buseki flower baskets. this is a little store full of handcrafted Japan-bric-a-brac (and a singed picture of Walter Mondale visiting the store). Next, Kamekichi Tea. a wee-little tea shop? no. This was one of the bigger stores on the street and has hundreds of different types and grades of tea (mostly green, i think). Upon entering you get a free cup of tea to hold while you browse. Also, conveniently enough, is a small chart explaining the different grades of green tea. Handy if you, like me, know nothing about tea. Last (for this part of the trip) was Goto-no-ame, a candy store. This is a candy store with a country flavor. As you walk in, the owner (I assume) yells his Irashaimase over ver the smooth country sounds of George Straight (or whomever) while wearing a nifty cowboy hat and boots. quite incongruous.

As you come to the end of the shopping section of the street you come to a set of stairs that lead up into what we will call the temple area. One of them was what seemed to be a music school (or for some reason I remember as such). It had a big tree that is apparently of some significance. And a spider, that was just creepy.Next door was Keio-ji temple. A little neighborhood temple most notable for its copper drainage system.

Next stop? Miyako Senbei, an old shop selling rice-cakes, sembei style. Although that store was closed, an old lady (who I will call Bridget) managed to convince the woman that runs the store to open up and sell a few. So we patiently waited in line hoping to get something to snack on, when "Bridget" turned and said, with a brusk wave, "closed today!" Properly chastised, we made our way down the street to the next little adventure.

Actually the next few hours was a wander through unnamed cemeteries looking for food. The area was quiet and peaceful, as a cemetery should be. Eventually the tour ended up in Ueno park (a different story for a different day) and a really nice ramen shop. By this time we had been walking for about 5 hours and had run out of energy.

This is ending bady, so all I can say is: Tune in for the continuing adventures of Joe in Tokyo!

The idea for this trip came from the book Little Adventures in Tokyo by Rick Kennedy Amazon.com/Amazon.co.jp

A Walk Through Old Tokyo (Photos)

Happy Thanksgiving

To echo a recent comment, "Happy Thanksgiving." I know that its a day or two late, but, well, there s no Thanksgiving here :(

This is one of the few days of the year that I really wish that I was back in the States.Well, have a turkey sandwich for me, and... enjoy!

Kyoto

I just got back from a 2 day trip to Kyoto (Japan, of course). For only 2 days, it was a great trip, but I'm sure that you could spend a few more, if you don't get burned out on temples and Japanese history. I was in Kyoto on November 1st and 2nd. Unfortunately this was, as it turned out, about 2 weeks too early. The leaves were just beginning to turn, and soon it will be ablaze with color (and dead leaves). No matter! I took plenty of pictures and I will post them posthaste!

The first day started early with a 7 a.m. train out of Jiyugaoka. From there, it was a 30 minute ride to Shin-Yokohama, where we caught the Shinkansen (or "bullet train"). This was about a 2 hour trip. From Kyoto station, we were able to send our luggage on to the hotel, saving a trip. first stop, Gion [history - photos]. Obviously Gion is all about the nightlife, as it was virtually deserted. It wasn't until we headed back to the main tourist street that we saw actual signs of life. Next was one of the highlights of the trip, the Gion odori, or dance [photos]. This was an amazingly interesting dance where geisha perform their trade. In its current incarnation, it only runs for 10 days. If you plan to visit Kyoto, check ahead to see if there is one scheduled. It'll be well worth the price. Following the dance, we visited few of the many surrounding temples. Most notable was the Kiyomizu temple [history - photos]. This is an impressive temple that looks out over Kyoto. After that, back to the hotel for a quick break before dinner, and then off to Pontocho for dinner. Pontocho is a narrow (about two people wide, comfortably) street/ally lined with restaurants and bars. Some of them are frequented by Geisha and their guests, but these are all by invite only. and the invite should be on top of a stack of cash. As we had neither, we opted for the concierges recommendation, Hasunba [ Hasunba review]. This was a great little restaurant off of the main Pontocho... um... ally. The approach to the restaurant was a little daunting as you turn off one dark ally, onto another, smaller, darker ally. But there was a light meal at the end of this tunnel. The meal consisted of tomato salad, fish-in-a-blanket, pork stew and Kyoto style eel. All of these were infinitely tastier than they sound. After dinner we headed back to the hotel to get some sleep for the next day of fun.

The second day started, a little later than planned, with a buffet breakfast at the hotel. After a nice stroll along the river, it was time to be off to Kinkakuji [history - photos] or "Temple of the Golden Pavilion." This truly impressive temple is, as advertised, golden, and one of the most popular tourist destinations in Kyoto. The temple sits on a reflecting pool/pond. Behind the temple is a beautiful, traditional garden that you can slowly stroll and admire before you get to less-serene, yet just as traditional, gift shop. From here it was off to the Kyoto Imperial Palace [history]. Two important things to note about the Kyoto Palace: one, it's only open to the public a few days a month. two, you need reservations. I missed on both counts, so the palace was essentially, a big park [photos], with some walls in the middle. The final stop on this tour was Nijo Castle [history - photos]. Although the castle and the gardens around it are impressive, without the history behind them, they would be much less interesting.

Although the trip lasted only a few days, we managed to visit some of the most popular destinations, and see some truly interesting things, culturally and artistically. If you visit Japan, a few days visit to Kyoto would be well worth your time, and I highly recommend it

Kyoyo Imperial Palace History

Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyoto Gosho) used to be the residence of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868, when the emperor and capital were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park.

The palace burnt down and was moved around the city several times over the centuries. The present reconstruction dates from 1855. The palace complex is enclosed by a long wall and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. The enthronement ceremonies of Emperors Taisho and Showa were still held in the palace's main hall, but the present Emperor's ceremony took place at the Tokyo Imperial Palace.

Kyoto Imperial Palace Photos

Kinkakuji History

Kinkaukuji is a popular name for one of the main buildings of the temple, which is properly called Rokuon-ji temple. In the 1220s it was the comfortable villa of Kintsune Saionji.
Yoshimitsu, the third shogun of Ashikaga, abdicated the throne in 1394. After three years, he befgan to build Kitayamaden and the made a special effort to make it a breathtaking sight. He indulged in his peaceful life in the scerene setting. After Yoshimitsu's death Kitayamaden was made into a Zen temple in accordance with his will. All of the buildings of those days have come to ruin with the exception of the main Kinkakuji temple (which has been rebuilt several times). the garden, however remains as it was in former days and can be enjoyed as it was hundreds of years ago.
Rokuonji Temple (Kinkakuji) was inscribed as a World Cultural Heritage site in 1994.

Kinkakuji Photos

Nijo Castle History

Nijo Castle was originally built in 1603 to be the official Kyoto residence of the first Tokugawa Shogun Ieyasu, and it was completed in 1626 by the third Shogun Iemitsu, who transferred some structured from Fushimi Castle, built in the Momoyama Period (1573-1614). Consequently, lavishly decorated Nijo Castle is the representitive of the height of Momoyama architecture. In its day it served as a symbol of the power and authority of the Tokugawa military government. Ornately decorated by the Kano family, the principal structure was made up of 33 rooms and was located on the eastern edge of a 70 acre compound. 
When Yoshinobu, the fifteenth Tokugawa Shogun, returned soverenigty to the Emperor in 1867, the Castle was given to the Imperial Family. In 1884 it was renamed Nijo detached palace and in 1939 donated to the city of Kyoto renamed Nijo Castle and opened to the public.

Nijo Castle Photos

Gion History

No matter what they say,
I love Gion.
Even in my sleep
The sound of water
Flows neneath my pillow

Yoshii Isamu (1886-1960)

Gion is a district of Kyoto, Japan, originally developed in the middle ages, in front of Yasaka Shrine.
This part of Kyoto has two hanamachi (geisha districts): Gion Kobu and Gion Higashi. Despite the considerable decline in the number of geisha in Gion since the turn of the century, it is still famous for the preservation of forms of traditional architecture and entertainment. Part of this district has been declared a national historical preservation district.

In 1712, the ochaya (tea houses) of Gion were given licenses permitting Geisha entertainment (and sake) by the Tokugawa Shogunate. Today there are just over 100 remaining, and several entire streets (primarily in Shirakawa and Gion) are preserved. In 1976, the Kyoto City government finally bagan to prevent the destruction of the architectural heritage of the ochaya and issued architectural guidelines for 7 distinct facades. The result is that these are among the few areas of the city where you can still get an idea of what Kyoto used to look like. Kyoto wasn't bombed during WWII, all of the destruction of the cityscape has been in recent years.

Gion Photos

Kiyomizu Temple History

Kiyomizu is an old temple of the Hosso sect of Buddhism, a relatively small sect that was established--according to legend--in 657 by the monk Dosho from China.  It is said that Kiyomizu-dera (Clear Water Temple) was founded in 798 by the monk Enchin through the patronage of the warrior Tamuramaro.  Legend states that Enchin dreamt of a golden stream flowing down from this mountain into the Yodogawa River.  When he went to investigate, he found an old man sitting on a log who gave his name as Gyoei.  The old man told Enchin that he had spent the last 200 years reciting invocations to Kannon (a god with eleven faces and 1,000 arms).  He wished Enchin to take his place so that he could make a pilgrimage, promising the young man that the log he'd been sitting on would make good material for an image of Kannon.  Enchin waited for a long time but the man did not return.  Hoping to find the old man, Enchin ascended a nearby hill and discovered a pair of shoes lying on the summit.  Enchin suddenly realized that the old man had been none other than Kannon himself--the shoes left behind signaled that the "old man" had returned to heaven.   He hurried back to the log, determined to make it into an image of Kannon as the god himself had suggested.

Twenty years passed, but Enchin could still not figure out how to shape the log into a proper image.  Finally one day the warrior Saka-no-ue Tamuramaro came through the forest hunting a stag for his pregnant wife (it was believed that stag's blood eased childbirth).  Tamuramaro came upon Enchin in the woods.  Impressed with his devotion, he decided that he would dismantle his own house and reassemble it as a temple beside a nearby waterfall.  With Tamuramaro's backing, Enchin finished the image and took residence in the new temple.

Legend also says that after Tamuramaro's gift, the warrior took part in expeditions against the indigeonous inhabitants of northern Japan.  The Emperor rewarded him with the title "Barbarian-subduing Generalissimo" for his deeds and gave him a fine building at the site of Nagaoka palace.  Tamuramaro also donated this building to the temple.

There is no way to test the veracity of the early legends concerning Kiyomizudera, for the original temple burned a number of times over the centuries.  In one notable conflict--the 15th century Onin War--it actually escaped damage because it remained neutral in the great sectarian feuds that ravaged the city (the Hosso sect was perhaps too small to get involved).

In the late 16th century Toyotomi Hideoshi, the unifier of Japan, spent much time at the temple and left behind a number of objects, many of which remain today.  The temple grew in the early 17th century, only to be savagely ruined by a massive fire that destroyed most of the original buildings.  Damage from the fire was quickly repaired, with most of the reconstructed buildings completed by 1633.  The present buildings generally date from that period, except for a few that escaped the fire on the western side of the temple.

During the Togukawa shogunate major restorations of the architecture and artwork were sponsored by the rulers, especially during the rule of the third Shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu.  Construction of the temple continues today, with several extensions having been built in the past twenty years.  Because of its history and spectacular vantage point overlooking the city, Kiyomizu-dera retains a reputation as one of Kyoto's finest templ

Kiyomizu Temple Photos

Kyoto Gion Odori Photos