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Sengakuji Temple (Resting Place of the 47 Ronin)

Sengakuji temple houses the graves of the 47 Ronin (and their lord, Asano Takumi-no-Kami Naganori). The story is fairly well known in the west, and is very famous here in Japan. It is considered a lesson on bushido (the warriors code).

If you aren't interested in the story, you can jump straight to the photos.

History in a Nutshell

As the story goes, lord Asano was insulted by Kira (Kira Kozuke-no-Suke Yoshinaka), another of the myriad of Japanese lords, and Asano attacked Kira. Oddly enough, the actual attack wasn't, it seems, as important as where the attack took place; Edo castle, the home of the Shogun. Asano was ordered to commit seppaku (ritual suicide).

Asano's samurai retainers planned to step down quietly, as to enable the succession of another member of the family. Unfortunately, this was impossible due to some political maneuvering. The current leader of the samurai (now, technically ronin), Oishi Kuranosuke Yoshio decided to plan revenge! On December 15th, 1702, Oishi and 46 other ronin (including Oishi's son) stormed Kira's mansion and, after a brief discussion, decapitated Kira, and took his head to Sengakuji temple. Apparently some people think that the true villan was the shogun, as this question is brought up in the entertaining, yet poorly produced video playing at the temple.

A month and a half later, on February 4th 1703, forty-six of the ronin committed seppaku as ordered by the shogun. Their graves can still be seen today at Sengakuji temple.

The Temple Today

After looking at the plaque listing the names of the 47 ronin at Sengakuji station, proceed quickly to the temple (about a 1 min walk). When you get to the temple from the station the first thing you will see is a large wood gate. This is called the middle (or second) gate constructed in 1836. Passing through this you come to the sacred gift shop. Next, across a very small stone bridge is the bronze statue of Oisji Kuranosuke, built in 1921. After this is the main (or third) gate, rebuilt in 1832. On the celling of the ground-floor can be seen a bronze dragon. Next is the wholly unimpressive main hall, rebuilt after WWII. To the left of the main hall is a statue of Sawaki Kodo Roshi, a 20th century Zen master. Just past him is the temple bell, constructed in 1913. Next is a series of plum trees given to and from people involved in the story. Among these trees is 'the blood stained stone,' from where Asano committed seppaku. Upon returning from decapitating Kira, the ronin, for some reason, washed his head in the well. The well is named Kubi-Arai well, meaning the head washing well. I assume that this was a later modification. Next, proceed through the gate that was originally at Asano's house, and come upon the Graves of the 47 ronin.

Getting There

First, get to Japan. Specifically Tokyo. After that, it's a piece of cake. The temple is a 2 minute walk from the aptly named Sengakuji station. This is very close to Shinagawa station on the subway Toei Asakusa Line. Admission is free for the graveyard and ¥500 for the museum.

plaque listing the names of the 47 Ronin, located in Sengakuji Station, Tokyo, Japan	Middle gate, build in 1836. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Main Gate, rebuilt in 1832. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Bronze statue of Oishi Kuranosuke, leader of the 47 Ronin. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Statue of Oishi Kuranosuke. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Statue of Sawaki Kodo Roshi, 20th century zen master. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Bonsho (Bell), Constructed in 1913. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Main Gate (rear view). Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Kubi-Arai (head washing) well, where Kira's decapitated head was washed. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Sign at Kubi-arai well. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	grave. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	memorial stone. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
grave. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Oishi headstone. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Gate to Ako Gishi's (47 Ronin's) graves. This gate was originally at Asano's residence but was relocated to Sengakuji temple during the Meiji era. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Graves of the 47 Ronin. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Graves of the 47 Ronin. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Graves of the 47 Ronin. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Graves of the 47 Ronin. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Graves of the 47 Ronin. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Graves of the 47 Ronin. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Grave of Oishi Kuranosuke. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Location map of the graves of the 47 Ronin. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Location map of the graves of the 47 Ronin. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Incence holder. grave of Asano Takuminokami. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Graves. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Peace offerings at the grave of Oishi Kuranosuke. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Plum Trees and "blood stained" stone. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	"blood stained" stone. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Sign on the "blood stained" stone. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan
Bronze Dragon in main gate. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Path to the graves. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan	Kubi-Arai well. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan

Jiyugaoka Graveyard

After stopping at the Tamagawa Shrine I headed to a Graveyard in Jiyugaoka.
For the most part, it's just the same as most other shrines. The main difference being all the gravestones. Typically in Japan people are cremated rather than buried. Also, it seems that a lot of families use the same headstone. Some of these headstones appear to be very old. As I wandered around looking at the monuments I had to take some pictures of some of the gifts left for the dearly departed: mostly flowers, but also beer.

I enjoy walking the grounds and I would definitely recommend visiting some of the smaller neighborhood shrines. Many of these are not as "magnificent" as some of the more popular ones, I think they offer a lot more in terms of accessibility.