2004年11月30日

A Walk Through Old Tokyo

This week I took a walk around an older part of Tokyo isn't really listed on any tour maps. There is a reason for this: it doesn't have a big shiny temple or a giant Buddha. It's just a neighborhood. But it's a nice neighborhood. And if you are looking for a one day walk that will show you some real Japanese life, sprinkled with temples and cemeteries, than this is the walk for you.

This day started out at Sendagi Station on the Chiyoda line. Right around the corner from the station was Sudo Koen, a little park that was highly recommended, and a bit run-down. I say this mostly because of the homless guy and the overflowing trash cans. Aside from that, it was a beautiful, highly landscaped park, that I would love to have outside my window. It even had a little waterfall. A little more care and bum-rushing would turn this into one of the nicest little parks I've seen here.

NOTE: It must be said that I am a little jaded when it comes to Japanese city parks. The park outshines, by far, any city park that I've seen in the U.S.

Next us was Yanaka-Ginza street. This is a little shopping street that was decorated with small black and white pictures over the various shoe stores, fish shops, tea shops and such. Places worth mentioning: Buseki flower baskets. this is a little store full of handcrafted Japan-bric-a-brac (and a singed picture of Walter Mondale visiting the store). Next, Kamekichi Tea. a wee-little tea shop? no. This was one of the bigger stores on the street and has hundreds of different types and grades of tea (mostly green, i think). Upon entering you get a free cup of tea to hold while you browse. Also, conveniently enough, is a small chart explaining the different grades of green tea. Handy if you, like me, know nothing about tea. Last (for this part of the trip) was Goto-no-ame, a candy store. This is a candy store with a country flavor. As you walk in, the owner (I assume) yells his Irashaimase over ver the smooth country sounds of George Straight (or whomever) while wearing a nifty cowboy hat and boots. quite incongruous.

As you come to the end of the shopping section of the street you come to a set of stairs that lead up into what we will call the temple area. One of them was what seemed to be a music school (or for some reason I remember as such). It had a big tree that is apparently of some significance. And a spider, that was just creepy.Next door was Keio-ji temple. A little neighborhood temple most notable for its copper drainage system.

Next stop? Miyako Senbei, an old shop selling rice-cakes, sembei style. Although that store was closed, an old lady (who I will call Bridget) managed to convince the woman that runs the store to open up and sell a few. So we patiently waited in line hoping to get something to snack on, when "Bridget" turned and said, with a brusk wave, "closed today!" Properly chastised, we made our way down the street to the next little adventure.

Actually the next few hours was a wander through unnamed cemeteries looking for food. The area was quiet and peaceful, as a cemetery should be. Eventually the tour ended up in Ueno park (a different story for a different day) and a really nice ramen shop. By this time we had been walking for about 5 hours and had run out of energy.

This is ending bady, so all I can say is: Tune in for the continuing adventures of Joe in Tokyo!

The idea for this trip came from the book Little Adventures in Tokyo by Rick Kennedy Amazon.com/Amazon.co.jp

Posted by Joe at 2004年11月30日 17:14
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